Twice the charm: Luna Rosa at the beach, too

It's no HoJo's. The signature restaurant at Deerfield Beach's Howard Johnson's has been replaced by a charming newcomer. Say goodbye to standard motel fare and hello to white tablecloths, candlelight and al fresco dining at Ristorante Luna Rosa.

If the name is familiar, it's because this is a 260-seat version of cozy Caffe Luna Rosa on Ocean Boulevard, a Delray Beach favorite since 1996. Owner Fran Marincola leased the old Howard Johnson's space and has transformed it into a sophisticated dining room accented in coppery hues.

Windows open to the sea air and a view of the pier with the beach just across a small road. The Italian menu is similar to that at the Delray Luna Rosa and the atmosphere is classy-casual. Some guests dress up, but there's no need to, especially in summer.

Luna Rosa is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and has a full bar, the Pink Moon. You can start your day there with luscious Pacific Island pancakes and end it with a minty mojito while flamenco guitarist Eric Larson serenades.

The fun beach location does have drawbacks. Since parking is limited, Luna Rosa offers valet service at the Howard Johnson entrance for $3. Remember to get your parking stub validated or the cost jumps to $10.

We opted for an inside table under spinning fans, and a friendly server quickly brought warm, fresh-baked breads served with garlic-studded olive oil. We liked the oil so much we used it to kick start a hum-drum order of insalata caprese . While the imported bufala mozzarella was ultra creamy, there were only three thin slices of tomatoes garnished with basil and a bit of olive oil -- too average for $14.

We were much happier with an order of calamari fritti . The squid rings are lightly dusted with cornmeal and flash-fried -- crisp, greaseless, tender and delicious whether you eat them plain or dipped in zesty fra diavolo or lemon aioli. They're served with arugula, which, like much of the produce here, is grown at Boynton Beach's Pontano Farms.

Two other favorites are Northern Italian sides of polenta and risotto. The mushroom risotto is terrific, earthy but not overpowered by the portobello, shiitake and button mushrooms. The polenta is shaped into triangles, baked and fast-fried for a crisp shell.

The rustic cornmeal cakes are paired with filet mignon tournedos, melt-in-your-mouth pieces of tender, white-pepper-crusted steak in a brandy demi-glace with sautéed cherry peppers and shallots served with perfectly cooked asparagus.

Seafood dishes are bound to lure diners back. Spicy shrimp and linguine get a thumbs up, as does the fresh catch (dolphin our visit) and a generous plate of linguine all'Amalfitana (one of several pasta choices) tossed with fresh fish, clams, calamari and shrimp sautéed with garlic, olive oil, imported tomatoes and basil. Pan-roasted salmon in a balsamic brown butter was a bit dry.

Smoky pancetta enlivens a breaded chicken breast cooked with biting tomatoes, fragrant basil and melted mozzarella.

The wine list is smaller than at the Delray restaurant, with about 140 labels, primarily Italian and American.

No need to rush off. Desserts include a traditional tiramisu or chocolate chip cannoli. And don't miss a moonlight stroll.

Ristorante Luna Rosa Grand Opening
to Benefit Share Our Strength Taste of the Nation

Delray Beach , FL - Ristorante Luna Rosa, a new restaurant located on the beach adjacent to the historic fishing pier in Deerfield Beach , is planning a festive grand opening party to benefit the Fort Lauderdale Share Our Strength (SOS) Taste of the Nation fundraiser. Ristorante Luna Rosa is created by the team behind the acclaimed Delray Beach oceanfront landmark restaurant, Caffe Luna Rosa.

“This will be a sister restaurant to our original, and will feature the same authentic Italian dishes. What sets this venture apart is our Pink Moon Bar, which will have an enhanced bar menu and plentiful seating,” said Operations Manager Jorge Ramos. “We are very pleased to dedicate our grand opening to the Fort Lauderdale Taste of the Nation, which is part of a nationwide organization dedicated to ending childhood hunger.”

The Grand Opening party, with a sumptuous array of delicious chef's specialties presented by the bite, accompanied by a generous selection of wine and beer, is planned for Wednesday, May 25, 2005 starting at 6:00 PM . Admission is complimentary, but guests will be able to make a contribution to Share Our Strength, should they choose to do so, with all funds presented to the charity. Ristorante Luna Rosa will set the pace for giving by making a substantial donation to the Fort Lauderdale SOS Taste of the Nation. The public is invited, but admission is by invitation only. To receive an invitation, please call 561-274-8898 X 12. Reservations are limited.

The Fort Lauderdale "Taste of the Nation" benefits Share Our Strength, which supports local agencies involved in hunger relief and other humanitarian service, such as the Florence Fuller Child Development Centers in Boca Raton, the Daily Bread Food Bank and the Sun-Sentinel Children's Fund, a fund of the McCormick Tribune Foundation.

Share Our Strength is an anti-hunger organization, based in Washington , D.C. , comprised of chefs, restaurateurs and hospitality professionals which annually organizes "Taste of the Nation" fundraisers nationwide. The organization distributes 100% of all ticket sales to hunger fighting organizations. This year's much anticipated Fort Lauderdale Taste of the Nation, which features over 50 top restaurants (including Caffe Luna Rosa and Ristorante Luna Rosa), fine wine and spirits and live and silent auctions, is planned for May 11, 2005 at the Fort Lauderdale Convention Center . For information and tickets call 1-877-26-TASTE.

Ristorante Luna Rosa and The Pink Moon Bar offer unobstructed views of the Deerfield Fishing Pier, the beach and the ocean from large outdoor covered and landscaped patio areas, and sophisticated, indoor-outdoor dining areas that take full advantage of a tropical setting. Authentic Italian cuisine is presented, accompanied by a Wine Spectator Award-winning wine list and a full selection of spirits and signature cocktails.

The 260 seat restaurant and bar is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with brunch served on the weekends. Ristorante Luna Rosa, is located at 2096 NE 2 nd Street , next to the Howard Johnson's Resort. For reservations, catering or information calls 954-429-8386.

Caffé Luna Rosa – ‘Magic Under the PinkMoon’

Tuscan arches, a painted ceil-ing, and wooden wine racks first establish the Italian theme. But the real magic comes with the food, under the mastery of Executive Chef Ernesto Di Blasi. We’re talking serious cuisine here, starting with a veritable “Who’s Who” of quality ingredi-ents (always a good sign), from authentic Parmigiano Reggiano, Bufala mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, and Prosciutto di Parma; to just-picked herbs and handmade breads.

We began with a Calamari appetizer, julienned into strips, then flash-sautéed (not breaded and fried!) with roasted red peppers, carrots, and sundried tomato pesto. Outstanding, especially when mopped up with the house-baked breads and roasted garlic brought to each table. The Combination Vegetable Plate makes a great appetizer or side dish to share, as does the Spuntini Misti antipasto platter or Broccoli Rabe. (Appetizers: $5-$16).

Homemade Pastas ($14-$19) are exceptional, so forget Dr. Atkins for the night. Sure, everyone has some sort of generic “pasta with vodka sauce,” but you simply won’t find any better than Chef Ernesto’s signature Creste di Gallo, with hand-craft-ed “Rooster’s Crest” pasta in a luscious vodka tomato cream sauce, enlivened with pan-seared pancetta and fresh basil.

Being so close to the ocean, you might expect some great seafood here. And you’d be right. Fresh Chilean Sea Bass Acqua Pazza, baked with plum tomatoes, red onion, garlic, asparagus, and herbed butter sauce, is simply divine. (I’ll be back for this one!). We also loved the Linguine all’ Amalfitana, a thundering bowl of assorted seafood, daily fresh catch, and fresh linguine, swim-ming in a radiant garlic sauce with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh basil. My choice for beef? Try the 14-oz. center cut Veal Chop, char-grilled to perfection, teamed with Portobella mush-rooms, garlic spinach and fresh mozzarella, then served atop soft Polenta (wow!). Pollo Ruspante is an outstanding rus-tic dish, featuring pan-roasted chicken simmered with carrots and shallots in a savory grain mustard sauce, with herb potatoes and spinach. Other notable Entrees ($15-$29) include Veal Chop Milanese, Pan Roasted Salmon, Filet Mignon Tournedos, and daily specials.

Any discussion of Luna Rosa must include its award-winning wine list of over 200 labels ($23 - $395, with most around $30-$80), stored mainly in the climate-controlled wine cellar. Our waiter, Kevin, had already impressed us with his exem-plary service, but his wine proficiency was particularly extraordinary, complete with tableside decanting, and even “seasoning” of the stemware. We enjoyed a Castello del Terriccio Tassinaia ‘00 ($70), a gutsy Super Tuscan (Cab, Merlot, and Sangiovese blend). Big, bold, and beefy, with underlying layers of coffee and smoke, it held up magnificently with our hearty entrees, espe-cially the veal.

Unfortunately, space precludes discussion of the desserts, full bar, lunch, breakfast, or brunch offerings, other than to say they’re also fantastic. And more good news: The Caffé has a new sister, Ristoranté Luna Rosa, opening soon in Deerfield Beach. (Stay tuned!). Caffé Luna Rosa: Simply stellar.